Windows 7 boot problems.
I'm running windows 7 on my pc and sometimes it just won't shutdown (I have to close it manually) Sometime it won't go or wake up from hibernate mode and lastly. My PC seems to reboot randomly and displays "BCCode: 9f" after the reboot. What can I do to stop all of this? PC specs (Might help) Phenom x4 9750 2,4Ghz 4x2 Gb DDR2-800 Gateway RS780 motherboard Hitachi 1Tb 7200rpm HDD SATA II ATI Radeon HD 5770 1Gb (Juniper) 300 Watt Power Supply
June 24th, 2011 2:21pm

This is a PSU issue. Your 300W PSU is woefully inadequate, and I'm surprised that your system even runs at all. According to the specs for your graphics card, it is recommended that you use a 450W PSU as a minimum. http://www.amd.com/uk/products/desktop/graphics/ati-radeon-hd-5000/hd-5770/Pages/ati-radeon-hd-5770-overview.aspx#3
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June 24th, 2011 2:35pm

The guy who sold me the PSU (A professional) told me my 300Watt power supply was good enough even if i wasn't sure. That means i must change my power supply else it's gonna give up soon? Might change my case by the same time to increase air flow. Thanks
June 25th, 2011 9:36am

I guess this PSU would be good enough? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016
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June 25th, 2011 9:44am

That would certainly be better than the one you currently have, although I would personally be happier with a PSU of 600W or greater. Remember that a 600W PSU drawing a continual load of 500W is going to run cooler and last longer than a 550W PSU subjected to the same load, plus having more capacity for possible future upgrades. Take a look at these. They are all PSUs having a capacity of 601W-700W. The first link is $50-$75, and the second $75-$100. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007656%20600014022%204026&IsNodeId=1&name=%2450%20-%20%2475 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007656%20600014022%204027&IsNodeId=1&name=%2475%20-%20%24100
June 26th, 2011 9:23am

The other thing to watch out for is that your system mostly uses the +12V power source. Some lower-end brands artificially increase their power ratings by putting a lot of power on the +3.3V or something - which doesn't help you. That Antec one is probably good, it's got a total of 69A on the +12V.
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June 26th, 2011 5:32pm

Please see: Antec Power Supply Calculator Carey Frisch
June 26th, 2011 6:04pm

Just before I saw your message. I went on that website and it told me that I needed between 303 and 330w under 90% load depending on the revision of the cpu (Which I dont know). That means the antec i found will fit great since i won't upgrade my PC anymore. When I bought it, i was equipped with an HD 4650 and according to antec calculator. 292watts under 90% load. So i'll order it as soon as I can and give you the results. That means my GPU running at 80c while playing crysis and my cpu running 50c idle werent normal.
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June 26th, 2011 7:59pm

I just checked AIDA64 (everest). Is it normal that the 3.3v is rated at 2.9v? I also have a +2.5v which is detected as running only a 1.1v and lastly my 12v is rated as 11.9v.
June 27th, 2011 9:52am

The voltage lines you should have on a PSU are +3.3V, +5V, +12V, -5V, and -12V. For most (practically all) modern systems, we can ignore the negative voltage lines. That leaves us with +3.3V, +5V, and +12V. These are nominal values for those lines, however it does not mean that the voltages will be at those values. Depending on the tolerance of the PSU, the voltages can vary, as shown below: Loose Tolerance -10%/+8% 3.3V min 2.97V max 3.63V 5V min 4.5V max 5.4V 12V min 10.8V max 12.9V Tight Tolerance ±5% 3.3V min 3.135V max 3.465V 5V min 4.75V max 5.25V 12V min 11.4V max 12.6V Referring to the above table, it can be seen that, even with Loose Tolerance, your +3.3V line is below spec (your +12V line is fine, by the way). It is possible that AIDA64 is misinterpretting the data supplied to it from the sensor chip on the motherboard (you may need to check that the correct power correction factors are used in AIDA64 - see its Help guide). An alternative way to check the voltages would be to see what they are reported as in the BIOS (most BIOSes support some hardware reporting of this nature). For an absolute voltage level check, you need to employ a technique known as BackProbing. With this, you use a digital multimeter to read the voltages directly from the rear of the main ATX 20/24 pin connector as it is connected to the motherboard. The technique has this name, because that is exactly what you do. Switch your digital multimeter to the DC voltage range and set it to AutoRange (if your multimeter doesn't have an AutoRange setting, use the 20V range). Insert the black probe into pin 3 (this is a common ground connection). Now, with the red lead carefully probe the voltages as follows: +3.3V pin 1, +5V pin 4, and +12V pin 10. What voltage does the meter show in each case? Do they all fall within the tolerance bands shown above? Certainly, none should be outside the Loose Tolerance values.
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June 27th, 2011 10:28am

Should I take this one instead? I heard that modular PSUs provoke some resistance due to the "modular". Around .25%. And on newegg today this PSU is a shell shocker but it only has 49A on the 12v rail. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096 Edit: Wait this seasonic only has 2 12v rail so that would explain the reduced amperage. So I guess this PSU would be good?
June 27th, 2011 8:21pm

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